Wine Conscience

A few weeks ago I attended the first annual Taste Camp East, a gathering of East Coast wine bloggers organized by Lenn Thompson of Lenndevours.  This event was intended to offer an opportunity to tour the Long Island wine region with fellow wine bloggers, talking shop, tasting great wines, and networking with local winemakers.  In fact, it was this event that inspired me to start this blog!

On the second day of Camp, we gathered at Shinn Estate Vineyards for lunch, wine tasting and a vineyard tour.  During lunch, we were treated to an informal presentation by representatives from three local wineries- Shinn Estate Vineyards, Macari Vineyards, and Jamesport Vineyards.  All three wineries expressed dedication to sustainable vineyard practices, which were first pioneered in the region by Joe Macari–owner of Macari Vineyards.  Macari began using sustainable vineyard practices when his vines were first planted in 1995.  His methods informed and inspired others, such that sustainable and biodynamic practices are becoming deeply embedded in the Long Island wine region’s culture and ideology.

vines at Shinn Estates

Sustainable practices are particularly difficult in Long Island due to the humidity (mold and mildew are constant threats), the relatively short growing season, and the flatness of the land, which doesn’t allow for airflow and drainage of cool and moist air.  They are also challenged by their soil type– a shallow layer of topsoil atop deep sand– which makes it difficult to maintain adequate vine nutrition.  Other vintners facing such challenges might resort to the use of heavy fungicides and fertilizers, but Macari and the others who follow his lead are concerned about the long-term health of the land, and desire to IMPROVE the land with its use, rather than degrading the land through chemical and mechanical interventions.

Following Macari’s lead, Shinn Estate Vineyards has embraced biodynamic principles, and continues to strive for complete sustainability.  Shinn uses extensive cover cropping to maximize soil nutrition, to prevent erosion and to encourage biodiversity.  They use solar panels to partially power their farmhouse and winery.  They also work closely with Cornell University to explore the benefits and risks of various sustainable viticultural techniques and chemical alternatives, and thus contribute to both the knowledge of the field and to others in the region who are struggling with similar challenges.

The Poop, photo courtesy of Dale Cruse- Drinks are on Me

During lunch (while we were still eating), the Shinns gave us a “hands-on” lesson about biodynamic practices by passing around a container of their biodynamic “preparation” (aka poop).  The preparation was created through a traditional method of burying of a female cow horn stuffed with cow manure for six months.  During the burial, the manure undergoes a chemical transformation resulting from bacterial activity and a shift in the poop’s pH due to the calcium in the horn.  Once resurrected, the manure is mixed with water and sprayed over the vines, much like fertilizer.  The Shinns compared the preparation to yeast–only a small amount is needed to cultivate a large amount of dough.  Luckily, despite its origin and appearance, the preparation  had very little odor  (just a slight musty or earthy aroma), so was not too off-putting at mealtime.

Not only do these three wineries embrace sustainable viticultural techniques, but they also happen to make some fantastic wines.  My personal favorites during the lunch were the Shinn 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, the Macari 2008 Rose, and the Shinn 2007 Cabernet Franc barrel sample.  For a complete review of all of the wines we tasted at lunch, check out John’s post on Anything Wine.

I find it very encouraging that there are a number of winemakers in the Long Island wine region who are dedicated to sustainable viticulture despite the particular challenges of the region.  I also found it refreshing to witness their solidarity in the effort, their willingness to experiment with their own land and fruit and their desire to work together to find new solutions to common concerns.